HOW TO BUY AND CARE FOR FIGURE SKATES
The boots need to be stiff enough to prevent the ankle from flopping, but still allow flexing of the ankle. Skaters may need to bend knees deeply when skating certain moves instead of using their ankles. New boots will develop some flexibility at the ankle as you begin to wear them. When the ankles are heavily creased, the skate is “broken down” and may not provide enough support. Consider the skater’s ability and weight to choose a boot. A boot should support itself when held by the cuff upside down.
Size
Be sure that skates are NOT too big. Trying to fill the excess space with thick socks causes the skater to lose support since the foot can still slip inside the boot. The boot should be sung through the instep and heel. Typically, a skater wears a boot one and one-half size smaller than the street shoe size. For young skaters who are growing quickly, boots may allow for nine months of growing, about one-half inch.
Lacing Tips
Tap the heel of the foot back into the boot. Pull the tongue completely up and then tuck it in. Pull the laces tightly – one pair at a time. Laces should be snug with even tension up through the instep and first hooks.
Breaking In Skates
Most new skates are heat moldable and the skate shop will bake the skates, put the skater in the skates in shop, and have them sit to mold the skate to their foot. Breaking in the skates, whether they are heat molded or not, is very important. Make sure that the tongue of the boot does not slide. If the tongue slips to the side while breaking in the boot, it will ALWAYS slip to the side. Be prepared that blisters may form. Some skaters find it helpful to put some quilting batting, mole skin, make up pads, etc. in the area of blisters.
If there are any areas that are uncomfortable, particularly the ankle, they may need to be stretched or “punched out” by a skate shop.
Do not leave skates in a hot car. It’s like putting them into the heat molding oven and they loose support, shape, and life.
Always use blade guards when walking around off the ice. Never let the blades contact cement or metal. Make sure the bottoms of the blades are completely clean of dirt before putting on the guards. Do not store skates with guards on.
Water is very hard on skates. Be sure to wipe the boots and blades dry with a towel each time before putting them away. The terry cloth covers (soakers) are very good for wicking away moisture that condenses on the blades after putting them away. Do not store the blades with rubber skate guards since they may encourage corrosion. The best thing to do is to take soakers off and skates out of the bag every night at home to allow them to dry and air out.
New skates will usually have a waterproof sole. Skaters may need to buy a product and reapply this themselves as it wears away. When drying out skates, do NOT place them by a heat source.
“LOCAL” SKATE SHOPS
Play it Again Sports
1829 Adams Street
Mankato
507-625-2000
Scheels
River Hills Mall
Mankato
507-386-7767
Pierce Skate and Ski
208 West 98th Street
Bloomington, MN 55420
888-SKI-1996
www.pierceskateandski.com
Westwood Sports in Bloomington
14805 Granada Ave South
Apple Valley, MN 55124
952-431-5590
http://westwoodsports.com
Riedell
122 Cannon River Ave. N.
Red Wing, MN 55066
651-388-8251
Riedellskates.com
Ama La vita (formerly Blades to Ballet)
Rochester, MN
https://www.shopamalavita.com/
Sharpening Skates
Be sure to have skates sharpened. It is a myth that beginning skaters do better on dull blades. Figure skates are not sharpened like hockey skates. Blades are sharpened or ground in a concave shape. This gives the blade the inside and outside edges which make contact with the ice. Skaters use these edges to control their footwork. Sharpening is typically needed every 30-40 hours of skating.
“LOCAL” SHARPENING SHOPS
Pierce Skate and Ski
208 West 98th Street
Bloomington, MN 55420
888-SKI-1996
www.pierceskateandski.com
Westwood Sports in Bloomington
14805 Granada Ave South
Apple Valley, MN 55124
952-431-5590
http://westwoodsports.com